Bandsaw Blade Basics 101

Overview: This video lays the foundation for understanding bandsaw blades, focusing on the basics of blade material, width, thickness, and tooth spacing—the core components that affect how your saw performs.

Blade Material:
Bandsaw blades are made of spring steel, a flexible material that can withstand the constant bending around the wheels while still returning to a straight position. This flexibility is essential for durability and tracking.

Blade Width:
Common widths in the portable sawmill and resaw industry include: - 1 inch
- 1.25 inches
- 1.5 inches
- 2 inches

Blade Thickness:
- 1" blade → 0.035"
- 1.25" blade → 0.042"
- 1.5" blade → 0.042", 0.050", 0.055" (with 0.050" being most common)
- 2" blade → 0.050" and 0.055"

Tooth Spacing:
Common spacings include 1/2", 5/8", 7/8", and 1 inch. The 5/8" (0.625") spacing has become a popular middle ground, offering a good balance of chip clearance and cutting speed.

Summary: Blade width, thickness, and tooth spacing all affect cut quality, blade life, and performance. This video breaks down these foundational specs so sawyers can make more informed choices for their mill and wood type.

Overview: This video provides a basic introduction to hook angle and tooth set for bandsaw blades used in sawmills and resaws. These two features are essential to how well a blade enters the cut and clears sawdust during operation.

Hook Angle:
The most common configuration is a 10-degree positive hook angle. This angle allows the blade to pull itself into the wood and maintain steady cutting pressure. Further breakdowns of different hook angles and their applications are covered in later videos in the series.

Tooth Set:
Bandsaw blades feature three tooth positions: right set, left set, and straight (raker). These are easily identified by looking at the face of the blade—teeth alternate from side to side. The purpose is to create a kerf wide enough to clear the blade body and prevent binding. More detail is coming in later segments.

Summary: This short intro sets the stage for deeper dives into tooth geometry and cutting mechanics. Understanding hook angle and set is foundational for choosing the right blade and getting better results from your sawmill or resaw.

Overview: This video explores the material composition of bandsaw blades and how anti-clastic curvature forms during regular use. It also discusses how to control blade shape using roller guides and flattening tools.

Bandsaw Blade Material:
Blades are made from high-carbon spring steel, which is harder and more durable than mild steel. This allows the teeth to be hardened and tempered, giving the blade flexibility for wheel travel and strength for cutting.

Anti-Clastic Curvature:
As the blade bends around the wheels, it develops a reverse curvature known as anti-clastic curvature. This upward or inward curve is caused by constant flexing over thousands of cycles. You can see a similar effect by flexing a razor blade or straight edge and noticing the bow in the middle.

Blade Control with Rollers:
This natural curvature can eventually cause the blade to dive off mid-cut. A band blade roller can flatten the blade, restoring balance. Roller guides positioned above the blade also help manage flatness and tracking. Maintaining a visible "crack of light" between a straight edge and the blade helps confirm proper shape.

Summary: Understanding blade metallurgy and curvature behavior is critical to maintaining straight, accurate cuts. Regularly checking for anti-clastic curve and using tools like rollers and guides helps reduce dive and keeps blades running true.

Overview: This video discusses the importance of blade thickness in bandsaw blades and how it impacts cutting performance, sawdust waste, and equipment setup.

Thin Kerf Blades and Sawdust Savings: The rise of the thin kerf industry was driven by the desire to reduce sawdust and leave more wood in the board. While old circle saws were about 1/4" thick, modern thin kerf blades are under 1/8". In resaw applications, even a few thousandths saved per board can make a difference in yield.

Blade Thickness and Saw Equipment: Thinner blades, like 0.035", are best used with smaller bandsaw wheels (around 16"). Thicker blades, up to 0.055", require larger wheels (19" or more) to avoid stress and premature wear. Blade stiffness affects feed rate, and harder steel blades may need larger wheels for long-term performance.

Blade Adjustment and Guidance: The key to blade performance is a well-tuned machine. Proper roller guide adjustment ensures straight cutting and avoids blade deflection. Whether you’re using thin or thick blades, accurate setup improves blade life and cut quality.

Summary: Choosing the right bandsaw blade thickness balances sawdust savings, cutting speed, and blade durability. The optimal blade depends on your sawmill’s specs and the type of wood you’re cutting.

Overview: This video explains the role of hook angle in bandsaw blade performance for both sawmills and resaws. It covers how hook angle affects cutting action, blade aggressiveness, and machine setup.

Hook Angle Concept:
A positive hook angle means the blade leans forward, pulling itself into the wood. A negative hook angle drags along the cut, and a neutral angle means the tooth points straight down.

Impact of Hook Angle:
Higher hook angles increase aggressiveness but can choke the gullet and break chips. Lower angles reduce bite and may cause the blade to rub instead of slice. Finding the right angle is key to clean, efficient cuts.

Industry Standards:
The industry standard hook angle is 10 degrees. Cook’s also offers an 8-degree Super Sharp™ blade for those needing a slightly reduced entry. Angles beyond 12 degrees are rarely recommended due to performance instability.

Blade Setup Considerations:
Even with the perfect hook angle, performance can suffer if the roller guides or band wheels are misaligned. A blade that leans forward or backward can alter hook angle unintentionally, leading to inconsistent cuts. Proper alignment with the mill bed and log is essential.

Summary: Hook angle

Overview: This video dives into the importance of blade set and how adjusting the set of your bandsaw blade teeth directly impacts cut quality, sawdust clearance, and overall blade life.

Understanding Blade Set:
Blade set is the slight bend or tilt in the teeth that creates the kerf (cut width). Teeth alternate between left, right, and straight, allowing sawdust to clear while preventing the blade from binding. The standard set range is typically 22–24 thousandths of an inch.

Factors Affecting Blade Set:
In cold or frozen wood, a higher set is needed to keep sawdust from clogging the blade. In warmer weather with ample horsepower, you can increase the set to 28 thousandths for cleaner cuts and fewer re-sets. Special use cases might push set to 35 thousandths, but that increases the demand on your mill.

Blade Sharpening & Set Maintenance:
Every 3–4 hours of sawing, blades should be sharpened. With each sharpening, the set decreases slightly, so it's smart to set blades slightly higher (28) upfront. Tip-set blades require more bend toward the gullet to avoid breakage due to the hardened tips.

Overcoming Resistance to Blade Setting:
Many sawyers skip setting because it's tedious—but it's one of the most critical parts of blade maintenance. Understanding the impact of proper set makes the process easier and more rewarding.

Summary: Managing blade set is key to maximizing saw performance, especially across different climates and workloads. When done right, it reduces waste, improves cut quality, and extends the life of your blades.

Overview: This video walks through how to safely fold and unfold coiled bandsaw blades, with helpful tips for handling wide and short blades. Proper technique is essential to prevent injury and avoid damaging the blade.

Unfolding Coiled Bandsaw Blades:
Always wear protective gloves and safety glasses. Hold the blade with the teeth facing your fingertips and gently separate the coils—right side in your right hand, left coil in your left hand. Go slow, especially with thicker or shorter blades, as they can spring open forcefully.

Folding Bandsaw Blades:
Hold the blade with the teeth facing up in your palm. Use your thumbs for control as you fold it over by popping it downward and crossing your hands. Once folded, grab both loops with your right hand and secure the bundle with your left.

Tips for Shorter, Wider Blades:
Blades 1.5" or 2" wide are harder to fold. Instead of struggling, use a stable object like a sawmill leg or workbench edge to help guide the blade into a folded position. Always fold with caution—especially when the teeth are facing down.

Summary: Folding and unfolding blades takes practice, but the right method makes the process smoother and safer. Use gloves, go slow, and be extra careful with short, wide, and high-tension blades. Questions? The speaker invites viewers to reach out for more blade handling tips.

Overview: This video explains the role of gullet depth in bandsaw blades and how it affects sawdust removal and blade durability in sawmill and resaw operations.

Gullet Depth:
The gullet is the space between the tip of the tooth and the bottom curve that follows it. Historically, blades had shallower gullets, but modern blades now feature deeper gullets—typically around 275–300 thousandths of an inch—to better clear sawdust during cutting.

A deeper gullet allows for more efficient material removal, especially in high-production sawing. However, there’s a trade-off: going too deep can weaken the blade body and increase the risk of cracks or breakage.

Tooth Spacing Connection:
While this video focuses on depth, the spacing between teeth also impacts the gullet’s ability to carry chips and sawdust. That topic is reserved for a future video.

Summary: The gullet is key to both sawdust clearance and blade longevity. A properly sized gullet provides the balance needed to cut efficiently without compromising the blade's structural integrity.

Overview: This video covers the impact of band blade speed on cut quality, vibration, and sawdust management. Ideal blade speed helps maximize performance while extending blade life—especially in thin-kerf sawing applications.

Optimal Band Blade Speed:
For sawmills using 26-inch band wheels, the recommended speed is about 5,000 feet per minute. Speeds above 5,500 FPM can introduce vibrations that reduce blade life. Smaller wheels (12–16 inches) should stay around 3,500–4,500 FPM to avoid excessive stress.

Tooth Spacing and Sawdust Removal:
At high speeds, teeth strike the wood 6 times per second—creating very fine, flour-like sawdust. If the blade’s gullet overflows, sawdust builds up, causing friction and heat. Slowing feed rate helps but can worsen fine dust, which leads to more spillover.

Saw Speed Adjustment and Maintenance:
Well-adjusted mills (with proper guide and wheel alignment) can hit feed rates of 50–60 FPM. Resaws using wider blades (1" or 1.25") can reach 100–125 FPM due to their improved chip handling capacity. Routine maintenance is essential to keep these speeds consistent.

Summary: Blade speed is a key part of sawmill efficiency. Aim for the sweet spot of around 5,000 FPM, maintain clean gullets for sawdust removal, and keep your sawmill tuned up to handle the load without introducing vibrations or heat.

Overview: This video offers practical guidance on selecting the correct tooth spacing for your bandsaw blade. It explains how blade width, horsepower, and sawmill setup all play a role in determining the best spacing for optimal performance.

Common Tooth Spacings:
The most commonly used spacings are 7/8 inch and 1 inch. Your choice depends heavily on blade width and the horsepower available on your sawmill.

Blade Width and Horsepower Considerations:
For 1.25-inch blades on sawmills with 10–30 HP motors, 7/8" spacing is ideal. Larger 1.5-inch blades paired with 30–35+ HP mills should use 1" spacing. Using too wide a spacing with low HP can cause the mill to bog down, while too narrow with high HP can overstress the blade and lead to stretching.

Blade Geometry and Setup:
Blade types like “Super Sharp” and “XL” have different hook angles and spacing tolerances. Super Sharp works best for finely tuned mills and delivers better bite. XL blades are more forgiving and better suited for sawmills that aren't perfectly dialed in.

Blade Tension and Flatness:
A flat, properly tensioned blade maintains consistent performance under load. Rolling the blade during manufacturing helps keep it flat during cutting, reducing the risk of drift and stretch.

Summary: Choosing the right tooth spacing is a balance between blade width, horsepower, blade geometry, and sawmill condition. This video breaks down the options to help sawyers make smarter decisions and cut more efficiently.

Overview: This video explains the role of blade tension in bandsaw performance and how to adjust it to extend blade life and improve cut quality. It includes tension tips for both high-production and custom cutting environments.

Blade Tension and Its Impact:
Too much tension can reduce blade life, while too little can cause tracking issues and poor cut quality. If you’re snapping blades often or noticing early wear, your tension may be too high.

Adjusting Blade Tension:
Back off the tension gradually until performance starts to drop, then go back slightly up. A spring-loaded tensioner can help maintain consistent pressure regardless of blade length. The goal is to use the minimum tension needed to achieve a clean, straight cut.

Balancing Tension and Production Needs:
In high-speed resawing, higher tension helps keep blades from deflecting. But in smaller shops or lower-volume sawing, reducing tension can dramatically extend blade life. It’s all about finding the right balance for your setup.

Blade Sharpening and Tension:
A well-sharpened blade needs less tension to perform. Sharpen more frequently to reduce the stress on the blade body and avoid overcompensating with higher tension.

Tension Measurement and Recommended Levels:
Using a tensiometer, blade stretch can be measured accurately. Tension recommendations vary by blade size, generally ranging from 16,000 to 22,000 pounds. While higher tension can be used, it will likely shorten blade lifespan.

Summary: Proper tensioning is a balance between cutting performance and blade longevity. Use the lowest tension that still gives you a clean cut, sharpen often, and consider using a tensionmeter to dial it in precisely.

Overview: This video demonstrates how to properly use a tension meter to check and adjust blade tension on your sawmill. It walks through setup, measurement, and how to interpret tension readings for blade longevity and safety.

Tension Meter Basics:
The tension meter works like a dial indicator, showing blade tension in pounds. Always zero the gauge before use and avoid pressing the blade against the back of the meter to prevent damage. The tool measures stretch in the blade to calculate real-time tension.

Tensioning the Sawmill Blade:
For most sawmills, the ideal tension is between 17,000 and 18,000 pounds. Many sawmills have a reference mark for consistent setup. Just one pump of the tension system can raise pressure by 1,000 pounds—so regular checks are critical.

Adjusting Tension Safely:
If you're experiencing frequent blade breakage, reduce tension slightly. While tighter tension allows for faster cutting, there's a tipping point where over-tensioning will reduce blade life. Factors like humidity, rust, and temperature can also affect blade tension throughout the day.

Summary: Using a tensionmeter is the most accurate way to ensure your bandsaw blade is running within its safe operating range. It helps prevent breakage, optimize cut performance, and protect your equipment from stress-related wear.

Overview: This video tackles one of the most frustrating sawmill issues—blades that dive or rise during the cut. It highlights key causes and how to identify them before they compromise your lumber quality.

Identifying the Problem:
Watch your blade during operation. If it dips or climbs when hitting a knot or the end of a log, it’s likely a setup or blade condition issue. This behavior can ruin the consistency and thickness of your boards.

Common Causes and Fixes:
- Blade sharpness: Dull blades tend to dive under pressure.
- Blade set: Poor or uneven set can shift the blade mid-cut.
- Blade flatness: A blade with curvature won’t track evenly.
- Roller guides: Worn or sticky guides create instability.
- Wheel alignment: Misaligned wheels can tilt the blade’s cutting path.

Why It Matters:
These five elements—sharpness, set, flatness, guide condition, and vertical alignment—all work together. Overlooking one can lead to inconsistent lumber or even damage to the blade and mill. Fixing these ensures cleaner, straighter cuts and fewer blade issues.

Summary: Blade dive or rise is rarely caused by just one thing. A holistic look at your blade condition and sawmill setup is the best way to diagnose and correct the issue.

Overview: This video explains how blade sharpness directly impacts sawing accuracy and helps prevent your blade from dipping or diving during the cut. It also covers proper sharpening technique and the role of gullet grinding.

Blade Sharpness:
Every blade starts sharp but gradually dulls with use. Dull blades cause the blade to wander, dip, or dive, which leads to inconsistent board thickness and poor cut quality. To prevent this, sharpen frequently—don’t wait until the blade is completely dull. Early sharpening extends the blade’s usable life and improves performance.

Sharpening Technique:
Focus on the tip and face of the tooth—this is where cutting actually happens. A sharp tooth looks crisp and pointed, while a dull one appears shiny and rounded. Proper sharpening is essential to keep blades cutting straight and clean.

Gullet Grinding:
The gullet plays a key role in sawdust removal. Keeping it square helps improve chip flow, especially in high-volume sawing. However, contrary to popular belief, dull gullets are not the main cause of blade breakage. Gullet grinding is beneficial, but not required for blade longevity.

Summary: Keep your blades sharp, sharpen early, and sharpen often. Sharp teeth reduce cutting resistance, prevent tracking issues, and extend blade life. Pay attention to the tooth tip, and treat gullet grinding as a helpful maintenance step—not a cure-all.

Overview: In this video, Stephen Cook of Cook’s Saw Manufacturing explains the role of blade set in sawing performance and how getting it right can dramatically improve cut quality and material yield. This is Part 3 of the “Diving and Rising Blades” series.

Blade Set Basics:
Blade set refers to the alternating pattern of right-hand, left-hand, and straight (raker) teeth. A proper set clears sawdust and reduces friction. Running a blade with no set causes heat, smoke, and poor cut quality. The recommended set is between 18–30 thousandths, with 25 thousandths being the ideal for most applications.

Adjusting Set by Application:
- Use a narrower set (around 18) for frozen logs or fine sawdust removal.
- Use a wider set (up to 35) for aggressive cutting—only if your mill has enough horsepower.
- Maintain consistency: variation in set should stay within 2–3 thousandths from side to side for best performance.

Blade Type and Yield:
Stephen shares a case study where a customer improved yield by switching to a slightly narrower blade (5/16") when cutting cypress fencing. That blade tweak allowed them to save an extra board per log—enough to pay off the saw in just a few months.

Factors to Consider:
Blade set choice depends on material type, mill horsepower, blade condition, and environmental conditions. Blades aren’t always perfect, but with proper adjustment, even minor imperfections can be accounted for.

Summary: Blade set matters more than most sawyers realize. Stick to 25 thousandths for general cutting, adjust as needed for wood type or freezing conditions, and always aim for even, consistent set across the blade to reduce drift and improve results.

Overview: This video highlights the importance of blade flatness and explains how anti-clastic curvature forms in bandsaw blades. The discussion covers how to diagnose it, what causes it, and how to work with your mill or blade supplier to address it.

Anti-clastic Curvature:
As blades run around the wheels, they flex and eventually develop a slight curvature—often referred to as anti-clastic curvature. Unlike expected downward sag, this curvature may bend upward due to repetitive stress, which can affect cut stability over time.

Diagnosing Blade Flatness:
To check for blade flatness, lay a straight edge (razor blade or ruler) across the band. If there's a gap in the middle, you’ve got a curve. That curvature might be upward or downward, depending on blade wear and wheel dynamics.

Correcting Blade Curvature:
A slight upward curve is ideal because it can be controlled with proper roller guide adjustment. Downward curve, however, can lead to rising or diving in the cut. Using larger band wheels slows the formation of this curve and extends blade life.

Customizing Blade Solutions:
Every sawmill behaves differently. That’s why Cook’s works directly with customers to tailor-fit blades based on machine setup, cutting conditions, and observed blade behavior. Reporting your blade’s flatness or performance issues can help the team provide smarter, longer-lasting solutions.

Summary: Blade flatness plays a huge role in consistent sawing. Understanding how curvature forms, how to diagnose it, and how to adjust for it can improve cutting accuracy, reduce blade failure, and get more from your sawmill investment.

Overview: This video focuses on the fourth of five key sawing factors—roller guides. These small but powerful components are critical to keeping your bandsaw blade aligned, stable, and cutting true on a thin kerf sawmill.

Role of Roller Guides:
Each mill uses two hardened roller guides—one on either side of the blade—to maintain tracking and blade tilt. These guides support the blade’s position and help it cut straight and parallel to your sawmill bunks.

Importance of Maintenance:
Over time, guides can wear down or tilt, throwing off blade alignment. Use a straight edge to check for uneven wear. Jammed or ungreased rollers can form flat spots, which cause vibrations, inaccurate cuts, and even blade breakage.

Wear Frequency and Greasing:
- High-use mills: Replace roller guides every ~6 months.
- Low-use mills: May last 1–5 years depending on care.
Guides spin fast—up to 10,000 RPM—so proper greasing and using small re-greasable bearings is essential to prevent failure.

Mega Roller Guides:
For mills with space, the mega roller guide option uses a 4" diameter to slow rotation and reduce wear. This design increases blade control but requires more clearance around the blade path.

Summary: Roller guides are a high-speed, high-stress part of your sawmill setup. Keep them clean, greased, and checked regularly. Whether standard or mega, they directly affect blade stability and cut precision in thin kerf sawing operations.

Overview: This final video in the “Diving and Rising Blades” series focuses on the fifth key factor in blade performance—vertical band wheel alignment. Proper alignment plays a major role in blade tracking, stability, and consistent cutting.

Vertical Alignment of Band Wheels:
The band wheels should be parallel to the sawmill frame with a slight forward tilt at the top. For 19" wheels, this means around 1/16 inch tilt; for 25–26" wheels, aim for 1/8 inch. This subtle tilt helps keep the blade stable and reduces diving or dipping.

Measuring and Adjusting:
Use the mill’s 3x6 tubing frame as a reference. Take measurements at both the top and bottom of each wheel to ensure even alignment. Adjust the tilt using the drive bearing assembly and the idle-side bearing as needed. Be cautious of hinge slack or component shifts that could affect the setup.

Why Alignment Matters:
Proper vertical alignment, along with sharpness, set, blade flatness, and roller guide tuning, creates the foundation for straight, clean cuts. According to Stephen Cook, this slightly forward-tilted technique is superior to wheels that are perfectly vertical or tilted back.

Summary: Vertical band wheel alignment is the finishing touch for dialed-in sawing performance. This video shows how to measure and tweak your setup for better blade control, longer blade life, and consistent production.